The Ultimate Guide to Walthamstow, London

Having lived in Walthamstow for more decades than I care to remember, it’s safe to say I’ve seen pretty much everything change here. The old cinema where I watched my first ever film fell into years of disrepair but has now bounced back and been transformed into a world-class theatre. High-rise apartments seem to sprout up every month, replacing rundown shopping centres, and national publications keep telling everyone that this is the best neighbourhood in the city. Is this the reality of living in Walthamstow? And what’s it like to visit if you fancy a change of pace in London?

Located at the northern end of the Victoria Line on the Underground, Walthamstow is about 20 minutes by tube from Oxford Circus. The main station is Walthamstow Central and this is also a hub where local buses and overground trains run. You can get to Liverpool Street in the City in 20 minutes from here, too. Other stations continue to parts of Walthamstow like Blackhorse Road, Wood Street and Queens’ Road. Ultimately this is a well connected part of London that was once considered a distant suburb but, as the capital continues to sprawl outwards, is now seen as a part of the city proper. Walthamstow is in the borough of Waltham Forest and neighbours Leyton, Leytonstone and Chingford. Widespread public transport and ease of commuting to all parts of London are one of the main reasons a growing number of people want to move here.

Given that Waltham Forest was the birthplace of Alfred Hitchcock, the arts have always played a big part in the culture here. I first visited the old Granada cinema in the early 1980s and the Art Deco interiors were still in place. The cinema itself had seen better days but it was still a great meeting point in the community at a time when Walthamstow itself was still a lesser-known part of London. There was an old shopping arcade which has now been turned into a block of flats and not much else to celebrate. Through a series of owners and deals the venue was shuttered in the early 2000s and was essentially gone as a public space for more than 20 years.

The venue has been restored to its former glory and will operate as Soho Theatre Walthamstow. The 960-seat main theatre space has many of the original features and designs from the 1930s, including the impressive chandeliers above. Additional bars, studios and restaurants have been added and it all looks like a welcoming attraction for locals and the growing number of visitors to E17. The likes of The Who, Johnny Cash, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones and Duke Ellington once performed here and live events will take centre stage again.

It’s a sign of how well Walthamstow is doing that this venue has been brought back to life, but what are the other reasons that this small part of London is regularly voted as the best in the country?

‘The Village’ is a fascinating attraction that outsiders seem to know really well. It is lauded as a throwback to a quaint era when local shops served the community. Don’t get me wrong, it’s nice enough, but I still just think of it as a quiet street with a decent chip shop on it. There are some cool cafes and restaurants here now, with a move to pedestrianise it causing much debate. The surrounding houses have shot up in value, but then again so has everywhere in this postcode. Families love it due to the number of great schools and as many of the houses are Victorian you often get a back garden and cellar for your money.

One of the original reasons to visit Walthamstow was the old High Street Market. It’s still there and continues to offer fresh fruit and veg but now also has all manner of other goods available. It was the longest outdoor street market in Europe many years ago and is still a fun place to go shopping. The Farmer’s Market on Sundays is also popular on the same stretch of road. There’s a smaller fresh produce market in Lloyd’s Park a few minutes away, and this is also where you’ll find William Morris Gallery. It was a regular school trip for us but is a genuinely great spot to visit alongside Vestry House Museum which is at the top end of The Village and currently under renovation.

The other school trip that felt mandatory was a day in Epping Forest. This ancient forest is one of the few remaining green spaces in London that isn’t flooded by visitors when the sun occasionally pops out. It skirts part of Walthamstow and is easily reached by Wood Street station. You can walk here in 30 minutes from the centre of town. If you head in the opposite direction you get to Blackhorse Road, where a number of breweries have popped up. Big Penny Social is a great space including a games hall, summer beach huts and outdoor garden. A little further is Walthamstow Wetlands – a large nature reserve running adjacent to the River Lee. If you want to escape the heat and (most of) the crowds in the summer, head here. The Pumphouse Museum is a listed building and a popular attraction for history buffs who want to learn more about the invention of modern sewage practices that inspired city building around the world. Trust me, its absolutely unmissable!

God’s Own Junkyard is a neon wonderland that has been seen on numerous commercials and TV shows. Its a busy coffee shop where you can’t help but grab a selfies for you social media. Head to Mother’s Ruin if you want to experience a ‘traditional’ gin palace and keep an eye out for other distilleries in the converted warehouse spaces close by. New spots for food and drink are planned at St James Street in the railway arches, where you can also find CRATE – our answer to Boxpark.

Everyone wants food recommendations here and there are dozens of options on the High Street and Orford Road. Taro has converted a pie & mash diner into a modern Japanese restaurant (although not much has changed inside thankfully) and Eat 17 operates as a spar with small dining area. To be honest though, your best option in Walthamstow is to head to Hoe Street, home of the aforementioned Soho Theatre and take a stroll on what locals affectionately call Burger Mile. You’ll find a variety of international curry houses, fast food restaurants and cafes with two personal favourites being Band of Burgers and new opening Andy’s.

It’s been incredible seeing the transformation of Walthamstow firsthand but the best thing is that, unlike other gentrified parts of the UK, all the best parts of it remain intact. Just don’t ever use the phrase “awesomestow”, it’s not one of ours!