Five Amazing Places in Sicily I Wouldn’t Have Visited Without a Car

There is so much to see and do in Sicily. Lots of it is very famous and many of the most popular tourist attractions here are worth visiting, but it’s much more interesting to dive into the lesser-known treasures that await in every corner of this epic isle.

I recently spent two weeks driving around the island in a relatively neat loop, having rented a rather adorable Fiat Pandino to do so. We took in an awful lot during our trip, from coast to mountain, quiet countryside to bustling cities, historic sites and cutting-edge restaurants. It dawned on me within a matter of days that getting a decent grasp of this endlessly fascinating place without a car would be, at best, a nightmare and, at worst, impossible.

So here are five places I visited in Sicily that you’re only likely to enjoy if you’ve got your own set of wheels.

Has the colour of water ever made you audibly groan? I don’t think I’ve ever been as infatuated by the oasis-like vision of calm ocean waters as I was throughout my day exploring Zingaro, Sicily’s OG nature reserve, designated in the ‘80s when protesting locals prevented a road from being built right through the area.

Those folks are heroes in my eyes, as this is probably the most beautiful stretch of coast in all of Sicily, but isn’t frequented by nearly as many tourists as you’d expect, thanks to its location on the far northwest of the island, near Trapani.

Essentially it’s a coastal path, with one car park on the south side and another on the north. The trail winds along the coast for around 7km, and dotted along the route are around six-or-so small pebbly coves, some of which are among the most delightful beaches I’ve ever visited. Crystal clear waters with surreal hues of blue and green and endless views of the Sicilian coastline. It’s magic.

This is clearly a favoured beach destination among Sicilians and, in my experience, it was mainly locals along with intrepid French and German tourists who were after a good hike.

I recommend you pick up some supplies from nearby Scopello Market and Supermarket – there are no facilities in the reserve – park up, find your favourite spot and camp up for the day. If you just want to chill on the beach, no problem, but the hike itself is amazing, so why not spend the day beach hopping?

Having a car is a must, and parking is included with the €5 entrance fee. Arrive early to grab a space, or cough up a few Euros more at one of the other nearby car parks. Zingaro is an ideal day trip from Palermo or Trapani.

A common sight throughout Sicily is of relatively small towns built atop huge hills or mountains. The kind of fairytale communes that make you question the first folk who, hundreds of years ago, elaborately decided to cart their building materials all the way to the top.

At the time I’d have said they were stupid, but their foresight was remarkable, and now we curious travellers can enjoy these stunning medieval creations all over Sicily’s many hills. Castelmola, overlooking touristy Taormina, is one such town, but my favourite was probably Erice, again on the western side of the island near Trapani.

The town itself is extremely historic, with several old churches, an epic cliffside castle and a seemingly endless maze of adorable cobblestone streets. There’s also a decent collection of cafes and restaurants here, so plenty of spots to grab a coffee, a granita and perhaps some Genovesi pastry, a local delicacy.

My recommendation is to come here at lunchtime, hopefully with clear skies, and head to La Tonda Fritta, one of the finest arancini joints in all of Sicily – and that’s saying something. The range of flavours is enchanting, so grab a mix of classic, contemporary – I recommend the Caprese – perhaps even some sweet variations, and stroll down to Viale Conte Pepoli for the best lunch-with-a-view in your life.

Look one way to spot Trapani, its nearby salt pans and the shimmering western coastline, or turn the other and enjoy seemingly endless views of the Sicilian countryside. Rolling hills, tiny towns and little lakes as far as the eye can see. Dreamy.

Oh, and did I mention that La Tonda Fritta also sells the beers brewed by Birrificio Baroni Birra, including one delicious brown bitter named after Erice itself – perfect for washing down that arancini.

The southeast of Sicily is a little more well trodden. You have famous Syracuse and its beautiful old town Ortigia. There are the spectacular hilltop towns of Val di Noto and the amazing chocolate of Modica. There are also a slew of excellent beaches leading all the way west to the Valley of the Temples and the Turkish Steps.

One hidden gem missed by many touring this part of the island is Cavagrande del Cassibile. This canyon is epic in every way, including the two rather challenging paths that take you down to the bottom – one on the north side and one on the south. The hike is short in distance but the terrain is very tricky and not to be recommended at high temperatures.

The reward, as well as spectacular views throughout, lies at the bottom where the Cassibile river unravels in a series of lakes, pools, streams and waterfalls that are just begging to be dipped into – especially after sweating your way down the canyon.

History buffs will get giddy at the caves and cliffside tombs that prove people have been using these waters for their replenishing powers for thousands and thousands of years. Quite frankly, who can blame them, it’s a stunning spot.

Again, expect to pay a small fee for parking and entry. The south entrance is most popular. There is a small cafe-restaurant-bar at the top, but once again I’d suggest packing plenty of supplies.

Oh, and not only is car the only realistic way of reaching Cavagrande del Cassibile, it’s also a pretty awesome route, especially from the south coast, which involves winding up a crazy series of hairpin turns – don’t worry, there’s a few pull-in spots where you can stop to take in the views.

Mount Etna is no hidden gem. The towering volcano has an unavoidable presence across all of Sicily. Its bubbling peak can be seen from afar, its volcanic rock has been used for construction all over the island, and its fertile grounds play a big role in Sicily’s unrivalled production of wine, olive oil, fruit, vegetables and nuts.

Most tours stop at Rifugio Sapienza, where you can explore nearby craters, hop on the cable-car towards the peak, or book an off-roading tour of the volcano. To be honest, all of that is worth doing, if not a little touristy.

But don’t do it on a day trip from Taormina. You need to spend some time on Etna, not least because if you stay on the mountain like we did, at the utterly gorgeous Bosco Ciancio, you may be treated to dazzling views of the volcano actually spitting out lava, as we were, and it was the highlight of our trip.

Spending more time on Etna’s grounds allows you to explore a little off the beaten path, and thanks to our amazing tour with Saro e Giovanni Guide, we were able to discover the remarkable beauty of Monti De Fiore.

This volcanic crater was formed during the 1974 eruption, and offers an amazing western view of Etna’s peak, as well as of the eastern coastline, the Nebrodi Mountains, and the moon-like ashy expanse of Etna itself.

The tour with Saro was exceptional as he took our geological knowledge from 0-100, strolling through a relatively nondescript woodland. Then, out of nowhere, you’re on a different planet. This was an experience that allowed us to have a far greater appreciation for the volcano – as well as a fair few epic photos – without encountering a single tourist across four hours of walking.

It’s also worth coming back to the car park that leads to Monti De Fiore as the sun begins to wind down for the day. There’s a secret spot along the road up here that offers one of the most magical sunset views I’ve ever witnessed – and we had it all to ourselves!

It would be remiss of me to talk about Sicily without getting to food. Our entire two-week adventure was filled with amazing Italian cuisine. Pasta, pizza, seafood; cannoli, gelato, granita; coffee, wine, Aperol spritz – the list goes on and on and on.

You can’t go far wrong with a traditional looking Osteria or Trattoria in any town or city, but no trip to Sicily is complete without some time spent on an agriturismo.

These innovative spaces combine the island’s two primary economies – agriculture and tourism – so that you can stay or eat in beautiful farmhouses, feasting on the excellent produce of the very same institution.

Ristorante Manna Noto is one such example, not too far from Avola, Syracuse and the Val di Noto, but totally off the beaten track if you don’t have a vehicle.

Our dining experience here was exceptional. A beautiful setting. Super friendly staff. Amazing wine. A little amuse bouche, an amazing Modica beef stew and an ocean-fresh slice of white fish. Not to mention the homemade gelato and sorbet – utterly divine.

So there you have it. Renting a car in Sicily allows you to see so much more in so much less time. It can tie together the seemingly faraway attractions of Palermo, Taormina, Syracuse and Agrigento, but it can also reveal a whole world of Sicily you’d never otherwise see. The random town you end up in for dinner, or the spectacular view sitting on the side of the road.

There’s no better way to see this island than behind the wheel of a car, watching the landscape slowly change as you bask in that beautiful Mediterranean sunshine. If that’s not Italy done right, I don’t know what is.